 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The first
thing I must say before I get started is that I couldn't have made
and truly understood liquid soapmaking with out reading Catherine
Failor's book Making Natural Liquid Soaps. I strongly suggest
buying this book and reading it over before attempting liquid
soap. The method I use on this page is her paste method which
I find very easy to make. The reason I am writing this web
page is because I understand that when you are on a soap journey,
the more information the better. Pat
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The recipe
366 g coconut oil 1424 canola oil 400 g Potassium
Hydroxide 1204 g water
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This method
uses a double boiler system, I use two pots, one smaller than the
other, the handles on the top pot hold it suspended over the bottom
of the larger pot. I put water in the bottom one and when the top
pot is on it, the water level is over the bottom of the top pot.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
When you add
the potassium hydroxide it will sound like it is going to explode or
boil over, but the water does not bubble up at all and it doesn't
even heat us as much as sodium hydroxide so don't worry.
One more note, I am one of those risk taking soapers who
doesn't even wear gloves when making soap. (this is not a recommended method of making
soap!). When mixing the
water & potassium hydroxide together and when mixing the
soap there seems to be a very caustic steam that comes from the
mixture. When I make liquid soap I always wear long sleeves
and gloves otherwise my skin begins to burn.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
-pre-heat the
water in the bottom of your double boiler - heat and mix your
oils and fats like you normally would for cp, using
the temperatures 160 for the oils and 140 for the Potassium/water
mixture, they will get to these temperatures very fast so be ready
with your hot water in the bottom of your double boiler when you
start.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Try to bring
your soap to trace, which even with a stick blender is pretty
long. It will go through a few stages before it hardens into
your paste. It will also keep trying to separate, but keep
mixing it until it is VERY VERY thick like a very thick custard or
maybe a meringue.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Tip:
Try to keep your soap as close
to 160 deg as you can, if you go over 160 your soap will boil up
over the top of the pot, much less than 160 and your soap will take
forever to trace
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This is not
trace, just a good imitation. It has to get much thicker than
this. If you stopped at this point your soap would
separate.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nope, this
isn't it either, keep going.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I am not sure
you can tell by this picture, but at some point your soap may look
sort of grainy and like it is separating. Keep going, this is
normal.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Now this is a
stage you have to look out for. This is what your soap looks
like just before it starts to puff up and out of the pot. What
happens is that the soap gets too hot (you notice that it is in the
double boiler.) and it doubles in size.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If you see
this start happening get your pot into your sink and let it cool
off. I have a sprayer in my sink and I use it on cold
and spray the outside of the pot. I don't have any pictures of
the soap puffing up, because I was just a tad too busy making sure I
didn't get caustic soap all over the counter and the floor.
That is exactly what happened when I tried a crockpot to make
liquid soap. I guess my crockpot is a bit too hot and there is
no way to cool it down quickly as the sides are meant for
insulation. Catherine mentions this in her liquid soapmaking
book, but she says that it is because of the trapped air in the
soap. Through my experience I disagree with her theory.
It does look as though it is full of air and that is why it is
puffing up, but as long as the pot was too hot, I could not stir it
down, while using a sprayer to cool the side of the pot immediately
made the soap collapse back to it's original size. Whatever
the theory, be aware this may happen and be prepared.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I didn't get a
picture of the most important part of this process, trace, as when
the soap came down from it's puffy stage it collapsed into a solid
mass. This is sort of what it looked like, but this is a bit
further on in the process, after it has been heating for a
while.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Put the soap
into the top of your double boiler and bring the heat up. It will
make a very stiff paste, I don't bother to try and mix it, it is far
too thick. Check your mixture twice for separation 20 min apart.
You have to pry the paste away from the bottom of the pot. If it has
separated there will be a clear liquid on the bottom. If you find
this you will have to mix it up again, which believe me is not that
easy, a very good reason to make sure you get it too full
trace.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|